Travel Greece - Autumn break in Crete
As the tourist season winds down for winter it's a good time to soak up the sunshine in Crete. Two weeks in October was the perfect escape. We flew into Heraklion, picked up a hire car and headed to our hotel.
Hersonissos was very touristy and in all honesty a bit tacky. We had booked a cheap all-inclusive so we went with it. I would never have tolerated in peak season but we had the car and intended to just use it as our base. Once of our first road trips was to go visit Psychro Cave. It's an ancient Minoan sacred cave in Lasithi plateau. The scenery was wonderful at every step of the way. We stopped to take in views only to reach our destination to find it was closed for winter. The parking area has a restaurant and tourist shops so we stopped for a drink looking over the plateau.
Next stop, Agios Nikolaos, a coastal town. The port and the small lagoon Lake Voulismeni were easy to wander around with plenty of restaurants for a bite to eat. We took a gentle stroll and wander around without much of a plan on what we see or do here.
We did re-visited Heraklion (as we'd only seen the airport) but the truth is we found it a little stressful driving around the city and finding parking. Once we found a spot we got out on foot to have a look around. Heraklion is what you'd expect from a large city, plenty of shops, cafes, restaurants and throw in churches and archaeological sites. In the old port is Koule Fortress and it is one of the most emblematic landmarks of Heraklion Town.
Matala is a village known for it's beach and caves. We found it to be crowded but not unbearable. You have to explore on foot but took our time wandering around and found a vegan cafe (Mad Irie) to stop for a bite to eat.
Most days we didn't have much of a plan and just drove seeing where we ended up and stopping off to take in scenic views. I'm having to go off photo location stamps to even figure out where we ended up at times. Elounta was a lovely beach resort, with wonderful views and lined with restaurants. This one hit the spot for me. It is a popular destination for holiday makers and those wish to visit Spinalonga Island. Kritsa is one of the oldest and most picturesque villages set in the mountain foothills. I had found a guide online highlighting it was known for embroidery and textiles. I had visions of old ladies sat outside crafting in the shade (I saw a few) however I couldn't tell what was genuine. On the other hand the village was beautiful to explore and that felt authentic. Next up was Sisi, where we explored the rugged coast line, port, shops and ate lunch. Then on to the small and quiet seaside village of Milatos and Cave of Milatos.
After nine days of staying in Hersonissos we relocated ourselves to Galatas near Chania. On route to our hotel we pit stopped in Rethymno. It was charming to wander the old town, a maze of cobbled alleyways and ancient architecture. We had a bite to eat and I found vegan ice cream so it was a lovely way to spend an afternoon.
The following day we spent the morning in Chania. Wandering the port and alleyways, taking in the sights, shops and food. I was won over after discovering Pulse Vegan, a perfect little vegan café where I finally was able to eat Moussaka and Baklava.
I'd recommend the Botanical Garden of Crete is you want a lovely 2.5km hike. The trail follows the mountain slope with ascending and descending routes to finish at the lake, followed by a twisty path that leads you to the exit and the restaurant. I'd recommend arriving early because it was busy by the time we left and if you are driving you might struggle to park.
We had overcast weather when we visited Paleochora; a sleepy village with stunning coastal views. We stumbled across Pirate's Taverna and had the most wonderful meal. It was a traditional experience and one of the best vegan gyros of the trip.
Crete is definitely a place that requires you to get off the tourist trail to find its hidden gems because there is a beautiful island to explore if you wish.
Sarah x